Power, Promise, Politics: The Pineapple from Columbus to Del Monte

20 February 2020 - 21 February 2020

The Sainsbury Laboratory Auditorium (Cambridge University Botanic Garden); The Bateman Auditorium (Gonville and Caius College)

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Victoria Avery (University of Cambridge)

Melissa Calaresu (University of Cambridge)

Lauren M. Gardiner (University of Cambridge)



The pineapple is an emblem of power, promise and politics and continues to attract interest from plant scientists, historians, and artists. Its ‘discovery’ by European colonisers in the late fifteenth century and its trajectory around the world, from an object of luxury and horticultural innovation in the early modern period to an everyday food in a can and a logo of fair-trade movements today, is a story through which we can understand modern globalisation. 

This interdisciplinary conference brings together academics from the arts, humanities, social sciences and sciences as well as museum professionals and artist-practitioners to investigate the understudied tensions between the representational power of the pineapple and the political contexts of its production around the globe, thereby making connections between the global and local which are at the heart of contemporary debates about the nature and origins of the food that we eat. 

Food will be at the centre of an ambitious ground-breaking exhibition at the Fitzwilliam Museum, ‘Feast & Fast: The art of food in Europe, 1500-1800’ (26 November 2019 to 19 April 2020). The exhibition, curated by Victoria Avery and Melissa Calaresu, will explore some of these contemporary concerns, such as global food security, sustainability, seasonality, food supply chains, and climate change, through the imaginative display and critical interpretation of objects, images and texts from the early modern period, linking the past with our present. 

This conference will build on some of the exhibition themes but expand them beyond its early modern and Eurocentric framework, by engaging with new historical writing on global history, which emphasizes the connected histories of commodities which do not always place Europe at its centre. The easy propagation of the pineapple, and its cultivation across the globe, from Brazil to Africa, China, and Europe, is particularly conducive to this kind of approach. It will also build on new approaches in the history of material culture, in particular, on the agency of matter and on making and knowing. The conference will also draw on the horticultural and botanical expertise at the University of Cambridge, with the visit to the glasshouses at the Botanic Garden and the study of specimens at the Herbarium, and incorporate this into our discussions.


Registration fees

Full price £40 (includes 2 day conference attendance, sandwich lunch and tea and coffee)

Student/Unwaged £20  (includes 2 day conference attendance, sandwich lunch and tea and coffee)



Pineapple teapot




Supported by the Cambridge University Herbarium, the Centre for Research in the Arts, Social Sciences and Humanities (CRASSH), and the Fitzwilliam Museum. 

Administrative assistance: conferences@crassh.cam.ac.uk

Day 1: Sainsbury Laboratory Auditorium

08.45 – 09.15


09.15 – 09.30

Welcome and opening 

Session 1: The Global Pineapple

Chair: Melissa Calaresu (Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge)

09.30 – 09.50

Rebecca Earle (School of Comparative American Studies, Warwick)

‘From the Caribs to Carmen Miranda’

09.50 – 10.10

Peter Crane (President, Oak Spring Garden Foundation, USA; former Director, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew) [recorded video presentation]

‘Maria Sibylla Merian, Metamorphosis and the Pineapple’

10.10 – 10.30

Melissa Caldwell (Anthropology, UC Santa Cruz, and editor of Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture)

‘The Pineapple Between Tropical Imaginaries and American Mythologies’

10.30 – 11.00


11.00 – 11.30

Break with Tea and Coffee

Session 2: The Replicated Pineapple 

Chair: Francesca Beauman (Author of The Pineapple: King of Fruits)

11.30 – 11.50

Jonathan Swinton (author of Alan Turing's Manchester (2019)) 

The Beauty Myth: Why Pineapples Don't Need Protractors

11.50 – 12.10

Emma Spary (Reader in History of Modern European Knowledge, Cambridge)

Princely Fruit: The Pineapple in Print in Old Regime France

12.10 – 12.30

Kasia Boddy (Reader in American Literature, English, Cambridge)

The Poetic Pineapple: Some Literary and Filmic uses of the Fruit

12.30 – 13.00


13.00 – 14.00

Lunch and time in the Botanic Garden

14.00 – 15.30

Session 3: Visit to the University Herbarium with Lauren Gardiner (Curator, Cambrudge University Herbarium) or food-related tour of the Botanic Garden with Alex Summers (Glasshouse Supervisor, Cambridge University Botanic Garden)

Session 4: The Edible Pineapple

Chair: Deborah Krohn (Associate Professor, Bard Graduate Center, New York) 


Richard A. Hawkins (Reader in History, University of Wolverhampton)

Pineapple Processing and Canning from the Mid-Nineteenth Century to the Twenty-First Century      


Ivan Day (Independent food historian)
‘As if Rosewater, Wine and Sugar was Mixed Together’: The Pineapple in the European Kitchen 

16.10 – 16.40

Sam Bompas and Rian Coulter (Bompas & Parr Studio)



Day 2: The Bateman Auditorium, Gonville & Caius

Session 4: The Iconic Pineapple

Chair: Dániel Margócsy (Lecturer in Science, Technology and Medicine before 1800, History and Philosophy of Science, Cambridge)

09.30 – 09.50

Julie Hochstrasser (School of Art and Art History, University of Iowa)

‘Familiar Exotic’: The Pineapple in Seventeenth-Century Dutch Painting 

09.50 – 10.10

Melissa Calaresu (Neil McKendrick Lecturer in History, Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge) 

 Pineapples and Pomegranates: Representing and Eating Exotic Fruit in Europe, 1500–1800

10.10 – 10.30

Kathryn Jones (Senior Curator, Decorative Arts, Royal Collection Trust)               

‘A Profusion of Pines’: The Pineapple in Architecture and the Decorative Arts 

10.30 – 11.00


11.00 – 11.30

Break with Tea & Coffee

Session 5: The Cultivated Pineapple

Chair: Sujit Sivasundaram (Professor of World History, Cambridge)

11.30 – 11.50

Lavinia Maddaluno (Warburg/I Tatti Joint Fellow)

Pineapples, Roman Aristocracy and the Pope in Enlightenment Rome

11.50 – 12.10

Johanna Lausen-Higgins (Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh) 

Pineapple Mania: How a Desire for the Exotic Led to Innovations for Growing Tropical Plants

12.10 – 12.30

Howard Griffiths (Professor of Plant Ecology, Plant Sciences, and Co-Chair of Cambridge Global Food Security IRC, Cambridge) 

Domestication of Wild Pine: How the Pineapple Works the Night Shift 

12.30 – 13.00


13.00 – 14.00

Lunch (Bateman Room, Gonville and Caius College)

Session 6: The Political Pineapple

Chair: Melissa L. Caldwell (Anthropology, UC Santa Cruz, and editor of Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture)

14.00 – 14.20

Henry Knight Lozano (Exeter)

'A Settler Colonial Experiment: The Pineapple and American Hawai‘i'

14.20 – 14.40

Martin Mowforth(Visiting Specialist in Tourism and Development, Plymouth Business School, Plymouth)

Dirty Pineapples from Costa Rica

14.40 – 15.00

Inanna Hamati-Ataya (Director, Centre for Global Knowledge Studies, CRASSH)

'The Traveling Pineapple: A Political History'

15.00 – 15.30


15.30 – 15.45



Session 7: Chairs’ Concluding Round Table 

Chair: Victoria Avery (Fitzwilliam Museum) and Melissa Calaresu (Gonville and Caius College)